Invercargill to Piopiotahi (Milford Sound)

We camped overnight in Invercargill and despite it being cold, which is I have decided is the norm for camper vanning in winter, you are either cold without the heater on or noisy if you leave it on. Minor details as we eat our toast, chuck on some washing and wait for the Big Dig to open at 9am so I can drive a digger, yeehaaaa. Then of to the Bill Richardson museum which opens at ten, to view once again the wall of fame. I havn’t been there since Dad’s induction which was 8 years ago and prior to it opening to the public. The excitement is palpable.

We get to Big Dig and it’s closed for COVID, by appointment only. I am gutted. We have an hour to kill before the museum opens so we head to Bluff. At the first photo stop I find that my camera didn’t charge and is dead flat. I am gutted.

With a now childhood sulk on, WH asks if I am ok and I’m not sure. It’s a bit like I said about The excitement with Aoraki, I was far too fluttery and now it’s not going to plan I’m flat. I take a pic on my phone of the signpost and get back in the van.
The next stop I read the sign and I love that all the bays and landmarks signposted refer to things as a treasure eg Te Waewae Bay: A Taonga/treasure, it fits with my journey and I once again take a breath, open my eyes and enjoy.

We reach the museum and I take the stairs to the hall of fame. Hayley Westerna’s version of Hine E Hine, plays as you enter. It is a well known Māori lullaby which is about the relationship between a father and daughter. There goes that scratch at the back of the throat.

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The loss is no longer overwhelming but the pride and love threatens to be. This True Taonga/treasure, is my Dad. I am privileged beyond measure to have this man as my tailwind and I miss him greatly but know how blessed I was to have him in my life. Happy Father’s Day.

That’s enough for today the journey can wait until tomorrow.

Aoraki to Invercargill

We leave the beautiful Aoraki and it’s surrounds and think that maybe we will get Invercargill, maybe not. We see a sign that points to “clay cliffs” and turn down the road wondering exactly how interesting clay cliffs can be. Another turn and we are at a farmers gate where there is an honesty box for $5. We put our 5 bucks in the tin and wonder what the cashless doesn’t? Along with wondering exactly how interesting clay cliffs can be. It’s a wondery morning. We bounce along a well worn gravel road and see why the farmer has to charge as replacing the metal must be a full time job. Then there you have clay cliffs. Who knew? another treasure found. It’s really hard to photograph as the day was dull and the scene immense but you get the gist.


They sort look like stalectites or is that stalemates? And you feel like perhaps you should be wearing a hard hat as you walk through the canyon up to the bowl. We count at least 10 cars/ vans in the car park on the way back down so the farmer is doing a roaring trade and it’s not even lunchtime.

Looking back through the canyon bit out to the farmland


We drive and The scenery is stunning. This is what road trips are about. Put a play list on and listen to Blondie, sing Valerie at full noise and even Sylvia’s Mother for good measure and when was the last time you listened to Songbird?
Pictures are better than the 1000s of words to describe the view out the window that competes with the harmony inside the van.

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Aoraki Mount Cook

New Zealand’s natural taonga. That is what I am in search of on this road trip. That is what my research and planning speaks of consistently, “New Zealand’s Taonga”, natural treasures.

I shall do my best to describe this place. You know how you get that excitement of anticipation. That fluttery feeling when you spend a lot of time planning something, you picture it in you head, you visualise it as post card perfect, every step in the plan adds to the flutter. We whizzed through here a month ago with the grandkids in tow and I was in awe. I was so looking forward to coming back that I nearly talked myself into it never being as good as that first time. You know that “never go backwards” it’s such a risk if it doesn’t live up. Like watching a movie of your favourite book, or going back to a restaurant where you had your best meal ever, something’s should just hold the moment.

And then it catches fire, and then it snows and you can’t get there, but hey the snow helps puts out the fire. The trip there is a post of its own and Then you are there and it’s scorched and smoking and the smell of smoke catches in the back of your throat, and the Maunga Aoraki unfolds as you approach it and it’s majestic.

The catch in your throat is now a feeling that you are indeed privileged to bear witness and be in this time and place. We walk Tasman valley track. We talk to a man who says he should be golfing in Arizona and a young couple who should be backpacking in Europe, yet here we all are and it’s amazing.

Tasman glacier and lake


we walk to the blue pools which are no longer blue but green. The signs tell us it’s because they are no longer fed by the glaciers. At least we can’t blame Covid just global warming.

skimming stones on the Green “blue. Lake”


We break up our walks by sitting in our camper having a cuppa and snacking on some yummy wraps (a packed lunch from our cottage). The brilliance of the camper proves its worth again as it comes complete with its own toilet as these have a sign on “closed for winter”.

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I have to explain more of the reasoning of the fluttery feeling and that is “Aoraki Mt Cook Lakeside Retreat”. Months ago I had booked two nights at this retreat. Set in an amazing setting, with breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a hot tub to View the spectacular night sky and gaze At the stars. And then it caught fire.

so as I said we waited it out in Christchurch and I couldn’t help but be disappointed. Minus 5 in the camper compared to cottage with a hot tub was no contest. I tried to be grateful, I was sincere in my concern for the owners and staff of the retreat and what they were facing. 2020 had again shown its barbs. Then luck, or fate or both and it snowed heavily and the fire was put out. We were told we could stay and warned of the smell of smoke and firemen on the drive.


We were met by the owners Kaye and Luke, with a bottle to thank us for coming. We are shown to our cottage with apologies for the smell and the smoking earth. The smell is negligible, the scorched earth is sobering. We go for a walk around this amazing property moulded and crafted with blood, sweat and tears and see what they have lost but also what was saved. It’s that lucky, unlucky all over again. Lucky no one was hurt, lucky the main buildings are fine, unlucky the grounds are so charred, unlucky the spa buildings are gone. The work they have to do to restore it back must feel daunting. But for us with a view like this out the window it is simply stunning and I feel blessed to be here.


Everyone and everything At this place was above expectations. The food was delicious, the cottage immaculate, the surroundings speak for themselves and the people were perfect.

I sit here days later trying to put the feelings to words, the rugby playing in the background as WH watches Nth vs STH and I wonder why I didn’t do it early when there was no TV and lots of time but I don’t wonder for long as I remember the timelessness of the moment in gazing at the stars, sipping wine by the fire and even beating WH at scrabble. It is a time and place where you can only truly be in that moment.

Road Trip – Christchurch

A road trip which is to be a mix of glamping in a camper and luxury in a lakeside cottage and as only 2020 can do it began with an ever changing set of circumstances alert levels which changed flight bookings which changed accomodation. On the day of our cancelled flight, for which we were now on standby, we make the decision to simply go to the airport and wait and see. And see they did, so with masked donned, hand baggage only, we board the plane.

Our next problem was one that came right out of the blue, a fire at Aoraki/Mt Cook where we had booked our first couple of nights. We watched the leaping flames on the news and booked a room in Christchurch.

It had been a long time since we had been in the city and it was great to see how far it had come and also sad to see how far it had to go. The 2020 word “Resilience” must be one that belonged to Christchurch long before the rest of the country captured it for COVID.


it was cold and wet and we sat on the tram, with a conductor, come tour quide who gave us and two others a personal tour.

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The parks are beautiful, the Margaret Mahy playground magical, and perhaps it’s the weather but the streets are quiet, the parks are empty and with a vista from our inner city hotel window of Lots and lots of parking lots, half demolished buildings, sparkly new library, nearly completed convention centres and new returnees treading laps behind barricades around and around.

The beauty imprinted on walls at a time of tragedy are soon to be covered by progress. Ten years down the track is a long time, what they achieved is amazing, what they have yet to do is incredible.

For Christchurch, RESILIENCE has to be it is your badge and you should wear it with pride.

PS Queenstown

This page is an addition to see if I can make my site link to my travel blog Facebook page. This is the third day of “attempt and when enough is enough – walk away”. Its part of my Zen training to remain calm and collected in times of tech challenges and remember at all times to be kind, even to my laptop.

last of the crop

Its certainly spectacular scenery in this part of the world and its great to be able to enjoy it. Every where we went the staff were amazing, friendly, open, and engaged. All of a sudden our country seems like a aquarium rather than a fishbowl. Its not just that there are so many places to be and so much to see but like anywhere we have been in the world, its amazing the different people you meet.

It felt like everyone had a story to tell and time to tell it, there were so many people from somewhere else and then those born and bred locals. Those who ahhhh”d and awed over our home in the Bay with great fondness, many who had never had the privilege of getting there and those who purely followed the winter from one side of the world to the other. There were those who had just got in and those who had never got out.

There are once busy tourist spots deserted and sitting empty with nobody home. You can’t help wonder where all the people who worked here went and when and if and how they will come back.

One story sticks as it’s just that reminder how sometimes “timing is everything”, we never really know what’s around the corner and the last 4 months have been a reminder of that. We met a really lovely “nearly” kiwi lady originally from the UK. Her and her partner have lived here for years. They have jobs and houses and friends and live’s here in NZ. They applied for citizenship last year, filled out the forms, paid the money, ticked the boxes and are now somewhere in the pipeline of time blocked by the weight of bureaucracy and the unknown. Timing is everything.

They had headed of on a long planned overseas holiday in February. It was a holiday in the Maldives and then to the UK to visit her sister and meet her new niece, catch up with family. Towards the end of their trip she goes to visit her Mum and he goes to visit his. They are booked from different destinations back to NZ, same day but seperate planes. Her plane leaves 5 hours before his. She phones him as she gets on the plane, “things are getting scary, it will be good to be home, see you soon”. She is on the last plane that will arrive in New Zealand before the border closes. Timing is everything.

Now she is here and he is there and as she says its tough. They are locked inside a process, stuck with no way forward in the foreseeable moments whilst the realities of money, mortgages, jobs, all weigh heavier by the day. I know its just one story amongst the many and there are so many worse off and so many better, but the stories are real whether in our fish bowl, aquarium or giant seas its the people you meet and the stories they tell that can leave the greatest impressions of all.

“Its not just about what you see its the people you meet along the way.”

Us in long afternoon shadows

My photos taken in this photographic wonderland are not that great. The light is watery and I never use filters so it is what it is. It matters not as somewhere, sometime, in hindsight when I am turning the pages they will ignite a feeling of the moments lived and breathed and shared and the notion that I always hold true. I am a lucky girl.

Happy birthday to me

Last years birthday blog was from the spectacular Blue Mountains in Australia. This years birthday was originally a trip to Sydney booked after the cancelled Europe trip. Who knew then that in June we would be tucked up in our NZ bubble. It’s been a crazy world and theres a lot of water under the bridge and Covid test straws down noses, since my lockdown blog, so I shall add to the ever-changing travel diary blog that is 2020 and continue the travels in this time and space.

With Sydney not an option and mounting AirNZ credits at our disposal the spirit of “cant leave home, so see your country” is where we are at and we book a great deal at the Gibbston Valley lodge/winery.



What a stunning country it is and we are of course grateful that we are here in this time and space. We came to this winery for my 40th birthday, a few years ago now, and they have since built a lodge and spa. It’s a lovely place to stay with great food and of course wine and also one of the best spa therapists I have had. Despite a large list of post lock down maintenance still required such as toes with the remnants of red chilack nail polish clinging desperately to the tips. By the way who knew you can’t get that stuff off, or at least I can’t, I tried the DIY when in lockdown but couldn’t get it to even smudge let alone budge so it slowly retreats to the outer edge of the nail like jelly tips. Then there are the eyebrows that once hid under a way to long lockdown fringe which are now on show naked and exposed after a much anticipated haircut was finally achieved. They have then been even further accentuated by the pulling on of my newly hand knitted Bev beanie crowning my head. I have never been a high maintenance sort of girl so it doesn’t take much to dismiss the maintenance and opt for the relaxation massage. I simply breath and enjoy the peaceful moments in this magical place and count my multiple blessings. Anyway toes go in shoes at this time of year and I can always pull my beanie further down over my eyes life is definitely for breathing.

Villas amongst the vines

We get bikes with our unit and use them well, ok I shall admit to upgrading said bikes to E Bikes, which I say was a most excellent idea. We bike along the trail to Arrowtown. It’s cold and brisk and beautiful with the exception of the swing bridges which still terrify me. WH tells me to just focus on the end and bike fast. It doesn’t work and A few metres in I stop and get off the bike and push it across with shakey woolly legs and self affirmations talking me across, reminding me what a brave, courageous woman who can do anything I am. Not a woolly legged scaredy pants.

Scary bridge or stunning take your pick
Kawerau bridge

We pass the bungy jumpers and enjoy the views whilst I ponder how their brain can take that leap of faith and step of the edge with elastic on their legs and mine doesn’t even like crossing a bridge suspended by big fat cables. The mind is a funny thing and the fear is real. Just like low key maintenance, I also know that in terms of adventure adrenaline I am not a “feel the fear and do it anyway” kinda girl. There’s plenty of scary and challenging things in life to keep me occupied.

The next day we wake up to snow low down on the hills around us. We get on our bikes and head the other way. Its cold, its fresh, its stunning and there are no swing bridges. We head down to Peregrine winery and meet some lovely people then on to Kinross who serve the best coffee around.

Just breathe
Peregrine winery
feeding out

Gotta go now and catch a plane. Haven’t as yet downloaded the rest of my photos so will tell myself I will do it tomorrow and finish the birthday blog but who knows, so will post now anyway.

Our next adventure is taking five of our mokupuna To Queenstown in the school holidays. So move over Bill and Ted and bring on NaN and Gdad adventures who said I wasn’t brave?

Last Day. Lockdown level 4.

Lockdown day 33. Thanks to those who let me know I did day 31 twice when in fact yesterday was day 32. I did say it was same ole, same ole but repeating a whole day seems recklessly mean. We can all be forgiven for feeling that we are on some sort of ground hog day: wake up, stay home, wash hands, be grateful, stay in your bubble, be kind, repeat. Wake up, stay home, be grateful, wash hands, be kind, stay in your bubble, repeat. At times being grateful has taken a considerable effort as the use of the rather gentler “same ole, same ole, expression has definitely felt more aligned to same s*#t different day. Yet I succumb to the age old belief that we choose our own attitude and exploring the neighbourhood has definitely given me the material for glass half full.

When the distance of time is placed between Covid and a future without it then there will be many things to be remembered and my coffee table blog book will indeed speak of my travels. It has been great opening my eyes and taking time to see things that have been there but most of all it has really helped in the positivity stakes and I thank all the artists for their brilliance. Its also been great to hear from those of you who have also now wandered, or biked and even scootered through the back lanes and alleys exploring and enjoying the spectacle. Those of you who haven’t then you have something to look forward too. (and one in particular, get wandering, You know who you are?)

There is a collection of photos below which are there to remind me, once printed in the coffee cup blog book of travels, that although the light might not have been great nor the finished picture do the subject justice the moments in time were in fact surreal.

this one is titled “paying our respects to Papatuanuku”.
brilliant, amazing, talent. thank you for sharing.
Empty Easter campgrounds
Deserted airports
Hidden in plain sight
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Morning rush

Leaving lock down feels good, despite the fact that nothing changes for our bubble. It feels like we are at least moving forward. At the same time I feel under pressure to keep the travel blog light and breezy and positive and am actually pleased to be able to now break until the next travel adventure begins. Perhaps it is the sense of the unknown or maybe it is the sense of negativity which seems to be seeping into the country’s cloak of patience and togetherness. Perhaps I think too much and it is quite simply that my exploring of the neighbourhood is done. Whatever it is we now venture into level three and we choose our attitude, mines good but the reality is “It is what it is”, “we are where we are” and the question is simply ” so where to from here”?

Today in the pre Covid universe WH and I were to pick up a rental car and travel to a wonderful cottage in St Remy de Provence, complete with a couple of push bikes to spend the next ten days exploring Provence. Maybe, one day. My hopes at this time are many, but in terms of travel ,it is simply that in a couple of months I will be back communicating with all of you – Whanau and friends – travel blogging away from a wonderful spot in Aotearoa. Maybe with a couple of grand kids in tow, maybe deep south, maybe the Coromandel, maybe the West Coast, maybe, maybe, maybe.

But for now level three: Stay home, wash your hands, be grateful, be kind, stay in your bubble (you can make it a tiny bit bigger) Repeat, and remember this too will pass.

Grateful to the street artists of Mauao. Thank you.

Grateful for beautiful sunrises and sunsets. Thank you

Grateful for loving, amazing Whanau and Friends. Thank you.

In the Neighbourhood

Lockdown. Day 31. Same old same old. Diary: J and T arrive home in Aotearoa. WH and I in Annecy.

Yet another stunner of a day whereby just when you think summer has finally packed its bags it just can’t seem to say good bye and returns, at least at the Mount it does and who can blame it. Whats not to love? It was 23 degrees today, a beautiful sea, loads of kids on the beach, you could of almost thought it was normal except for the lack of surfers and boats on the water. Thats something I miss and I can’t wait to see them again in a couple of days.

Saved the bike riding until late this afternoon, as nothing like mixing it up a bit to create some Covid-19 excitement. We made our way through our last undiscovered bit of the Main Street. I grabbed a shot of Burger King , a Covid-19 casualty, for posterity then ventured down the back lane. The shots are a bit dark as despite the blue skies the sun was falling fast and created long shadows, but I am sure you will get the picture. The one below I may have to go back at some stage with more light so the colours pop as I don’t think this shot doe it justice but I had to share it anyway.

I talked of grey the other day and then one of the first ones we come across is a series of cups, painted in all the shades between white and black. I really liked them. They made me think of perspective and “glass half full” even though I couldn’t see anything in them and one is upside down. Then on the next mural was a brilliant black and white. I loved the optimism and think it would off made a great Covid-19 mural. Just breathe.

Pilot Bay was full of people enjoying the sun and whilst it was tempting to hand around and watch yet another brilliant sunset we decided to head back before dark. 2 more sleeps until level three. Not that anything changes for us but at least it feels like something is happening and hopefully it moving forward.

Be grateful. Be kind. Wash your hands.

Perspective -Glass half Full (or upside down)
Pure optimism
Cruising – days gone by
Late sun falling

Lest we forget

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Day 31 lockdown. April 25th Anzac Day. Diary, J and T fly home from London. WH and I head to Annecy France.

In the Neighbourhood today was special. We woke before dawn and made our way to the end of the driveway with our phones set to broadcast the dawn service. We weren’t the first to the street and as our eyes became accustomed to the pre dawn darkness more body shapes emerged in the shadows. At 6am we turn on the radio to listen to the service, a neighbour blows his bugle, playing the last post. The moment is poignant and its easy for tears to sting your eyes. There is no place like home and today this is felt keenly as we remember those who fought for us to be here and those who never made it home.

We say the ode of remembrance, sing the anthems, and take a minute in silence to remember them. We then follow the hordes down to the beach to watch the sun rise. Grateful. As the thin light reaches through the night sky you begin to see just how many people are sitting, standing, watching, waiting and once again feeling grateful for being here in this place. Home.

The sky burns as it announces the day and we are once again treated to a stunning sunrise. Hundreds of us along the beach collectively watch from our isolation bubbles, alone-together we will remember them.

Sunrise 25th April We will remember them

In the neighbourhood

Day 30 Lockdown. Friday the 24th April. Diary London.

Today we ventured off on the bikes with the knowledge of our hot tip in regard to some street art we had missed. Funny thing was we had been down both the streets on either side but never ventured in the lane, it was really hard to spot and once in there it was already apparent it was disappering. I wonder if its hard for street artists to view their art as temporary when art is usually something that we hold onto and protect.

There is a man who comes down to the beach and spends hours and hours sculpting sand castles and then having them washed away. Does the temporariness of them make you more grateful for having witnessed them? Thats how I feel when I see them. Grateful for having witnessed them, just like last nights sunset. Early on in Lockdown we were walking on the beach at low tide and passed a man who was sculpting a large whale in the sand. He described to us how to him it was a representation of how people felt at the moment, “beached”, “stranded” but the tide would come in and wash this whale back out to sea and that was what we had to remember. I took the positive of that to be that “everything was going to be ok” we just had to wait for the tide to come in far enough. I really hope that 30 days is long enough.

Stranded sand whale

We move on and the street art hot tip was worth the bike ride. It was a people lane and lucky we found it now as its already disappearing. Mostly black and white, it was a pair of wise eyes peering out from behind a container, it was time eroding the appearance of an elderly gentleman just as time erodes us all, and a young man with a confidence pose which you can only hope that he exudes in reality.

Then there was a bit of colour, in chains already being painted out, Grey. If you had to name a colour a describe these adjectives Depressing? Bleak? Mediocre? I say that Grey would be your answer. Black and white and all the shades in between are brilliant. They are dramatic and alive just like the old gentlemen, the young man and the wise eyes, all shades of grey. So I hope that the half painted out wall finds some other shades of grey or colour to once again bring it to life.

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Wise eyes
Time erodes
Confidence
Fight back against the Grey

Thank you street artists you are amazing.

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