Category: Road Trip

After time spent on the hall of fame gallery I begin to explore “Bill Richardson Transport World” and it’s amazing. I had only been once before and that was prior to being open to the public when dad was inaugurated into the transport hall of fame. It was always going to be a special place but now they have curated so much more and the exhibits are brilliant. There is something for everyone and you should put it on the list. You simply must visit this place as it’s world class, both in its collection and it’s display. It had an exhibition on VW campers which resonated well with our camper vanning escapades.

We take the scenic route 99, put the play list on again and enjoy the view. We cruise past Riverton around the coast and through to Manapouri.

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We decide to keep going to Piopiotahi – Milford Sound and the scenery is epic. There is still lots of snow over the pass and through the Homer tunnel and the damage from the February 2020 floods is still evident everywhere, 2020 has a lot to answer for.

We camped overnight in Invercargill and despite it being cold, which is I have decided is the norm for camper vanning in winter, you are either cold without the heater on or noisy if you leave it on. Minor details as we eat our toast, chuck on some washing and wait for the Big Dig to open at 9am so I can drive a digger, yeehaaaa. Then of to the Bill Richardson museum which opens at ten, to view once again the wall of fame. I havn’t been there since Dad’s induction which was 8 years ago and prior to it opening to the public. The excitement is palpable.

We get to Big Dig and it’s closed for COVID, by appointment only. I am gutted. We have an hour to kill before the museum opens so we head to Bluff. At the first photo stop I find that my camera didn’t charge and is dead flat. I am gutted.

With a now childhood sulk on, WH asks if I am ok and I’m not sure. It’s a bit like I said about The excitement with Aoraki, I was far too fluttery and now it’s not going to plan I’m flat. I take a pic on my phone of the signpost and get back in the van.
The next stop I read the sign and I love that all the bays and landmarks signposted refer to things as a treasure eg Te Waewae Bay: A Taonga/treasure, it fits with my journey and I once again take a breath, open my eyes and enjoy.

We reach the museum and I take the stairs to the hall of fame. Hayley Westerna’s version of Hine E Hine, plays as you enter. It is a well known Māori lullaby which is about the relationship between a father and daughter. There goes that scratch at the back of the throat.

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The loss is no longer overwhelming but the pride and love threatens to be. This True Taonga/treasure, is my Dad. I am privileged beyond measure to have this man as my tailwind and I miss him greatly but know how blessed I was to have him in my life. Happy Father’s Day.

That’s enough for today the journey can wait until tomorrow.

We leave the beautiful Aoraki and it’s surrounds and think that maybe we will get Invercargill, maybe not. We see a sign that points to “clay cliffs” and turn down the road wondering exactly how interesting clay cliffs can be. Another turn and we are at a farmers gate where there is an honesty box for $5. We put our 5 bucks in the tin and wonder what the cashless doesn’t? Along with wondering exactly how interesting clay cliffs can be. It’s a wondery morning. We bounce along a well worn gravel road and see why the farmer has to charge as replacing the metal must be a full time job. Then there you have clay cliffs. Who knew? another treasure found. It’s really hard to photograph as the day was dull and the scene immense but you get the gist.

They sort look like stalectites or is that stalemates? And you feel like perhaps you should be wearing a hard hat as you walk through the canyon up to the bowl. We count at least 10 cars/ vans in the car park on the way back down so the farmer is doing a roaring trade and it’s not even lunchtime.

We drive and The scenery is stunning. This is what road trips are about. Put a play list on and listen to Blondie, sing Valerie at full noise and even Sylvia’s Mother for good measure and when was the last time you listened to Songbird?
Pictures are better than the 1000s of words to describe the view out the window that competes with the harmony inside the van.

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New Zealand’s natural taonga. That is what I am in search of on this road trip. That is what my research and planning speaks of consistently, “New Zealand’s Taonga”, natural treasures.

I shall do my best to describe this place. You know how you get that excitement of anticipation. That fluttery feeling when you spend a lot of time planning something, you picture it in you head, you visualise it as post card perfect, every step in the plan adds to the flutter. We whizzed through here a month ago with the grandkids in tow and I was in awe. I was so looking forward to coming back that I nearly talked myself into it never being as good as that first time. You know that “never go backwards” it’s such a risk if it doesn’t live up. Like watching a movie of your favourite book, or going back to a restaurant where you had your best meal ever, something’s should just hold the moment.

And then it catches fire, and then it snows and you can’t get there, but hey the snow helps puts out the fire. The trip there is a post of its own and Then you are there and it’s scorched and smoking and the smell of smoke catches in the back of your throat, and the Maunga Aoraki unfolds as you approach it and it’s majestic.

The catch in your throat is now a feeling that you are indeed privileged to bear witness and be in this time and place. We walk Tasman valley track. We talk to a man who says he should be golfing in Arizona and a young couple who should be backpacking in Europe, yet here we all are and it’s amazing.

we walk to the blue pools which are no longer blue but green. The signs tell us it’s because they are no longer fed by the glaciers. At least we can’t blame Covid just global warming.

We break up our walks by sitting in our camper having a cuppa and snacking on some yummy wraps (a packed lunch from our cottage). The brilliance of the camper proves its worth again as it comes complete with its own toilet as these have a sign on “closed for winter”.

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I have to explain more of the reasoning of the fluttery feeling and that is “Aoraki Mt Cook Lakeside Retreat”. Months ago I had booked two nights at this retreat. Set in an amazing setting, with breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a hot tub to View the spectacular night sky and gaze At the stars. And then it caught fire.

so as I said we waited it out in Christchurch and I couldn’t help but be disappointed. Minus 5 in the camper compared to cottage with a hot tub was no contest. I tried to be grateful, I was sincere in my concern for the owners and staff of the retreat and what they were facing. 2020 had again shown its barbs. Then luck, or fate or both and it snowed heavily and the fire was put out. We were told we could stay and warned of the smell of smoke and firemen on the drive.

We were met by the owners Kaye and Luke, with a bottle to thank us for coming. We are shown to our cottage with apologies for the smell and the smoking earth. The smell is negligible, the scorched earth is sobering. We go for a walk around this amazing property moulded and crafted with blood, sweat and tears and see what they have lost but also what was saved. It’s that lucky, unlucky all over again. Lucky no one was hurt, lucky the main buildings are fine, unlucky the grounds are so charred, unlucky the spa buildings are gone. The work they have to do to restore it back must feel daunting. But for us with a view like this out the window it is simply stunning and I feel blessed to be here.

Everyone and everything At this place was above expectations. The food was delicious, the cottage immaculate, the surroundings speak for themselves and the people were perfect.

I sit here days later trying to put the feelings to words, the rugby playing in the background as WH watches Nth vs STH and I wonder why I didn’t do it early when there was no TV and lots of time but I don’t wonder for long as I remember the timelessness of the moment in gazing at the stars, sipping wine by the fire and even beating WH at scrabble. It is a time and place where you can only truly be in that moment.

A road trip which is to be a mix of glamping in a camper and luxury in a lakeside cottage and as only 2020 can do it began with an ever changing set of circumstances alert levels which changed flight bookings which changed accomodation. On the day of our cancelled flight, for which we were now on standby, we make the decision to simply go to the airport and wait and see. And see they did, so with masked donned, hand baggage only, we board the plane.

Our next problem was one that came right out of the blue, a fire at Aoraki/Mt Cook where we had booked our first couple of nights. We watched the leaping flames on the news and booked a room in Christchurch.

It had been a long time since we had been in the city and it was great to see how far it had come and also sad to see how far it had to go. The 2020 word “Resilience” must be one that belonged to Christchurch long before the rest of the country captured it for COVID.

it was cold and wet and we sat on the tram, with a conductor, come tour quide who gave us and two others a personal tour.

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The parks are beautiful, the Margaret Mahy playground magical, and perhaps it’s the weather but the streets are quiet, the parks are empty and with a vista from our inner city hotel window of Lots and lots of parking lots, half demolished buildings, sparkly new library, nearly completed convention centres and new returnees treading laps behind barricades around and around.

The beauty imprinted on walls at a time of tragedy are soon to be covered by progress. Ten years down the track is a long time, what they achieved is amazing, what they have yet to do is incredible.

For Christchurch, RESILIENCE has to be it is your badge and you should wear it with pride.

 

Black Cab Tours

I think of all the things I learnt on this trip the one that amazes me the most is that there is a wall in Belfast  which separates the Protestant area  from the Catholic area.

I had heard of the “peace wall” and for some reason I thought it was a wall where everyone wrote messages on, which is sort of correct but it was put there to seperate the two communities and the gates still close at 7 pm every night.

the wall has been signed by millions of people, including some very famous ones

”open your arms to change,but don’t let go of your values” – Dalai Lama

right above the Wannabe famousAnna Kiwi

The graffiti is mixed with art although it feels a shame when an artwork such as the above is defaced like this.  The one below was left in tact, so far.

The wall stretches and bends around the edges of houses that are the same but seperated by difference.  It certainly an interesting situation

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it seemed crazy and still does that in this ultra friendly, modern and fun city the wall was a reality of some people’s lives.

The Black cab tour through these districts was fabulous and has to be a must do if in Belfast.

The cabbie dropped us of at The titanic museum and yes we all know the story so I shall not tell it but shall say the museum was great.

Belfast was brilliant the only thing that disappointed was not having another day and night to spend here.

Art on every corner

Belfast is brilliant.  We stayed at a great little Airbnb apartment in cathedral square.  We were met by the  owner who had a brother who lived in Wellington so had the two degree connection.   She recommended some places to see and eat and left us to it.

We decided to head to the Christmas market.

We wandered through the Christmas fare, fighting off the children’s flapping balloons and inhaling sweet sickly smells.  None of it actually induces us to stick around too long but I can concur with what Brits tell us, NZ doesn’t do Christmas well.  Everywhere we went whole towns are decorated and the turning on of lights is a big deal.  There are markets and festivals and singing and concerts.

We didn’t last last long and left the sparkling lights behind in search of a restaurant and wine without the balloons and reindeer.   Every corner turned in Belfast can unveil something remarkable or maybe not.  It is a city of anticipation where you are not quite sure what lays ahead but the  possibilities are enticing.

I could fill three blogs with pictures of the street murals.  Some are hidden by buildings, and you just catch a glimpse so you delve further

My favourite was a little lane with umbrellas on the ceiling that lead to a courtyard
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what you can see at the end is a courtyard where every inch is covered in murals.

And then on the outside

You can just keep going and going.

You get the picture.

It’s just such a great place to wander and  the people are really friendly and chatty, I will have to do a seperate post on the rest as run out of time.

Busy, busy day.  We spent the night at Derry and when light came in the morning we walked the city walls.  Evidently they are the oldest complete walls in Ireland.  The day is unfolding to be a stunner.

Having hit the furthest northern point we were now travelling south down the coastal road with the aim to be in Belfast before dark.  Our first stop is Lions gate and it’s beautiful.  You can drive right onto the beach below and see the dome in the distance.

Al’s coffee cart greets you in the car park,  he is not yet set up so he hands us a brochure and promises coffee on our return.  The walk through the ruins in its spectacular location is stunning.  The temple is actually a library which sits at the end of a path that is slowly being eroded by time and elements.

Al is good for his word and makes a great flat white which is very welcome after our fresh, brisk walk.  The sun is shining but it’s still only 6 degrees outside.  We farewell Al who tells us he has the best job in the world and has been doing it for 12 years.

We wind our way to the Dark Hedge, made famous from Game of Thrones.  We arrived with bus loads of tourists so was difficult to get a good shot, but I like this one with reflections in the puddle.

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We move on towards the Giants Causeway, a world heritage site of natural wonder and on reaching it I can say it is.  We feel under pressure for time as you could spend hours here walking the tracks and exploring.  The rocks jut out from the foreshore all like hexagonal towers.

It has its own Giant legend story and that along with the geology lessons is all really fascinating but time ticks by and we cheat and catch a shuttle bus back up the to the top.

We head towards Garrick rope bridge and duck and dive between  beautiful little bays.  The one below we literally stumbled on and is actually a wrong turn.  It was a lucky wrong turn as by the time we get to the rope bridge the light is gone .

We end up giving the bridge a miss and take a picture from the distance. The sun is going down and we are still away from Belfast.  I could tell you a few hairy  travel stories but don’t want to spoil the day so leave them be so they can  fade into the background and disappear.

We arrive at our apartment in Belfast, which is great, and then head out to explore.  There is a lot to explore.

We spent the night at Sligo in a tired hotel and ate a tired dinner and then watched some very tired TV, so we gave in and quickly succumbed to the general mood and were asleep by 9 pm.

We were out the door after you guessed it, a tired breakfast, and stopped down the road for a walk to ensure we leave all tiredness behind us.  The Citron is less bossy so the roads must be wider.    The temperature of 5 degrees definitely wakes us up.  We are on the surf coast so lots of beaches and even brave surfies out, but unlike Sligo they have wetsuits on.

 We make a detour up a goat track, to an ancient dome built around the 8th century.  Citron has a tantrum all the way up but it was worth it when we get to the top.  It’s great to wander around this ancient structure  The weather has chased us all morning and I feel like it has finally caught us and it’s going to snow any moment, my hands ache from the cold.

The 360 degree view is spectacular and the weather dramatic.

WE decide to head Malin Head which is the furthest northern point in Ireland. It Doesn’t disappoint as we play tag with the thunderstorms.

The weather is definitely wild.  It’s so windy it reminds me of a Wellington southerly, it’s bitterly cold and cuts straight through every layer you have on.

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the sheep didn’t seem to mind and in the next photo look out for the Eire sign on the grass.  It was out there in world war 2 to let pilots know they had reached Ireland’s coast and neutral territory.

We head back down the coast hoping to catch a ferry across towards the Giants Causeway, but alas no sailings today.

We head to Derry and on our way cross over the border and are now in the UK again.  Tomorrow we head for Belfast along the Giants Causeway and I can report our hotel tonight is not tired just comfy.

Where was I?  Can’t remember where we were last time I blogged.  I think Salthill just out of Galway.  It comes back to me as we left relatively early and stopped on the promenade to take a picture of the diving board.  Move over Wellington city bomb platform.  Might I add it was 5 degrees outside, not sure what the water temp was  and if you look closely you can see a lady who has just gotten out of the water. She has the orange bathing cap on and there were two more getting ready to go in.  One gentleman looked to be in his 70’s but being so hardy he was probably in his 90’s and just looked a Spritely 70ish.

We headed north as the objective was to keep following the Wild Atlantic Way.  It’s probably best to tell you the next in pictures as road trips are about what you see on the way.

I will add here that the Wild Atlantic Way is pretty wild.  Our little Citron bounced all over the road and left me feeling quite car sick.  We took the sky road which wound its way to the top and afforded wonderful views but the roads are incredibly bumpy. I think because so much of it is bog land.

We stumbled across castles
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and a phone booth in front of the “The Pound” ( check out sign on wall) which was after we had been travelling along a skinny road with no markings, no signs and grass growing in the middle of it. I was petrified something was going to come the other way, it didn’t – then whola all of a sudden there is a junction, with a phone box, and a pound. Excellent.

Just a little story about our Citron.  It hasn’t been a very bossy car.  It doesn’t beep when I open my door, or in reverse.  It doesn’t warn us that the light is on, nor get agitated when we approach a brick wall.  It does however beep when it thinks you have crossed the centre line or got to close to the edge of the road.  Sooooo you might say, what’s the problem?  The problem is that when you are on a skinny road with no centreline and the edge just right there then the car has a fit.   It beeps and beeps and beeps.  How annoying is that.

art of the day

tip

stay at Jameson apartments Salthill they are lovely. The staff and the apartments.  They even gave us some bottled water and lollies when we checked out for our journey.