Waitangi

There is no doubt that this part of the world is stunning.  Our country is new and as such we have so little history especially in relation to other parts of the world.   Being in this part of the country our history is front and centre, it’s on plagues and poles and photos.  Landmarks are everywhere and the explanations to go with them.

I recognise that I am limited in my knowledge of NZ history but also that I fare better than many.  I have travelled here before and knew about the Stone house, I had been to Waitangi  and even knew a version of Hone Heke and the chopped flagpole, I thought I had a good knowledge of the treaty, I knew about the whalers in Russell.  This piecemeal history of mine was about to be enlightened.

We begin our history lessons in Keri Keri.  We wander the old Pa site, the missionaries gardens, we learn about the teaching of bee keeping, visit the old stone store.

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We move on to Paihia and decide to get somewhere to stay whilst time and light is on our side.

Once settled in our hotel we head to Waitangi grounds.   It’s nearly 3pm and the half price entrance fee seems great (you need to provide some NZ I D for this).  The lovely lady serving us asks if we want to join the tour which starts at 4 and meets just outside the museum,  we say ok.   We head into the museum first and yes I am thinking what will I be doing once I have finished in the museum and waiting for the tour to start…….Nearly an hour later and only half way through the exhibitions I glance at my watch and realise we have missed the tour.  We carry on and emerge after another hour.  Truth be told I could probably have gone back in.  The museum is dedicated solely to the treaty of Waitangi and it is truly fascinating.

There is so much inside of us as kiwis that has influenced our perceptions and ideas of Waitangi and the treaty.  Here it is laid out before you, to unwind and uncover.  You can read, listen, watch, even touch, using whatever medium makes sense to you and the journey is great.  My threadbare treaty education feels whole and I wish I had done it years ago.

On our way out we apologise for missing our tour and are simply invited back for one in the morning. We duly comply and our  guide is great a mix of knowledge, humour and respect and our education continues.  We tour the grounds, the flagpole, the Wharenui, the waka, the homestead and are even treated to a cultural performance.  We spend the whole morning here and finally wander away at midday.  It’s been great.

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I have already written in regard to museums and I have been to many. on my “ability to hold attention” ranking system many have been bad, some average, and every now and then, really good but I have now been to two amazing ones which have absolutely captivated me for completely different reasons, The Guggenheim and Te Kongahu – Museum of Waitangi.

Some fun facts that I didn’t know below (hope I got my dates right though……so maybe go and check it out yourself and don’t take my word for it)

The first flag of NZ was as below.  I wonder why we changed it? It is still a legally recognised flag today.

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Lord and Lady Bledisloe privately bought the 1000 acres of land that is Waitangi and gifted it back to the people’s of NZ in 1938.  They restored the house before they gave it all back on February 6th – Waitangi Day.   Māori then built the Wharenui and instead of it facing East as per the norm it faces the South to keep the dialogue open between the two parties. 10,000 people came to original Waitangi ceremony.

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There are woman signatories on the treaty document.

There was a Declaration of Independence signed prior to the treaty.

There are so many more fascinating facts and theories about how we got to be where we are today and everyone should try and visit this place at least once and give it the time and attention it deserves. You need to spend a day here.

Mangonui

We give Kaitaia a miss as it didn’t inspire any desire to return on our way through earlier in the day.  We take the coast road and head for Mangonui.  It’s been a long but lovely day and looking for somewhere to stay starts to be annoying.  WH finds the Waterfront Apartment motel, does some reconnaissance, then books a room with a view.  It’s raining again and getting dark and I won’t tell the story about how I didn’t like the stairs in that particular split level apartment and WH moved us to a really cute, bathroom on the same level one and I feel older than I am.

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waterfront apartment hotel at the end of the boardwalk

In this very small town our dinner options were quite amazing.  There is the world famous Mangonui fish and chips,  the local pub fare looked enticing but straight underneath us  is the waterfront cafe which due to the time of night and the length of the day seems perfect.  It doesn’t disappoint as I have the pan seared snapper with caper sauce and WH has the lamb rack.  We even have brandy snaps for dessert and all is well with the world.

The morning breaks and it’s stunning.  I ache for my camera as the light is perfect and every moment feels that it’s at its very best.   All the photos on today’s (and every days) are taken on my phone so it’s literally point and shoot.

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Morning breaks on the harbour

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There are many more photos like the above but you definitely get the picture.  We wander and get a great coffee from the Little Kitchen cafe and then wander some more.It should be taken 40 minutes before the sexual activity to enjoy the best results.’ 1 pill of cialis pills for sale impact or keep going for 5 to 6 hours. Those under the age of forty five with significant risk factors should have yearly tests order levitra online http://www.midwayfire.com/?product=7168 as well. It’s rare to have trouble of digestion, giddiness, stuffy nose online sale viagra and change of sight. You don’t want your gadget http://www.midwayfire.com/minutes/08-12-08.pdf prescription du viagra be permanently damaged, do you? A little rain and a little splash can be fine.

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It’s hard to take yourself away from the ordinary being extraordinary.

Morning walk Mangonui boardwalk

Watching the sun rise, following the John Dory and stingrays around the board walk, hearing the fishing boats get ready at the wharf,  I can only say that everyone’s bucket list must include Mangonui.  Go. Stay at the Mangonui Waterfront apartments.  Eat pan fried snapper at the Waterfront cafe.  Get coffee from the Little Kitchen and maybe even stay another day and have fish and chips as well.

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Cape Reinga

I know that I should of posted this yesterday and didn’t but I ran out of time and it deserved its own space.  I find myself eager to get there, the building excitement was unexpected and I am not sure if it was purely to be in this space or the retracing the steps of childhood memories, either one was fine with me.

We head past Kaitaia thinking we will find somewhere for lunch up ahead and a while later are greeted with sign pointing to a beachside cafe.  After taking this scenic diversion we find that alas it is closed on a Monday.  “Ah ha” I say and yes of course you guessed it, I remind WH that is it not wonderful to be married to a wife who packs crackers, butter, vegemite and even a tomato.  “But no knife” he says.  A quick opening of the glove box reveals a particularly sharpish plastic one I placed there some time ago for just such occasions as being hungry up North, in the rain, at a remote picnic spot with stunning views.

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The beauty of the rain was that there is not many people around and we cannot help but be pleased when on arrival at the Cape Reinga car park the big bus departs just after we park.   I remember at the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland when we arrive late in the afternoon thinking we will have missed the rush and there are 15 buses in the car park and 100s cars.  It’s good to be here, home.

We wander the path and the tip of the North finally reveals itself in the distance only to be quickly covered again in the mist.

We watch the two oceans collide and read about the legends of Māui and the spiritual connection back to Hawaiiki.    We see different birds and I am going to go home and google them to see if they are Godwits who fly back to Alaska every year and return direct across this ocean, the longest known direct flight of any bird.You will get the chance to satisfy your partner well for many hours leading to total satisfaction. tadalafil overnight If you are buying 240 pills you will tadalafil 20mg generic be paying $143.60 and saving $16 US dollars. If you are a woman, and start noticing viagra online canadian the changes. My driver’s license, in 1969, was my ticket to freedom brand viagra and adventure.

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Two oceans collide

We pose in front of the lighthouse and the sign post with the distances to far away places and take an opportunistic selfie to send to the kids.  Sure the weather could have been better but it could’ve been worse and the ebbing and flowing of the mist and clouds added to the beauty.

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We finished our stint up here with a detour down to the sand dunes.  Rolling hills of golden sand which could easily have been in some desert scene, but here they are right here in our backyard.

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Opononi – Cape Reinga

We park ourselves ar the Opononi Hotel and have a beer (or three or ok maybe 4) with the locals and some not so locals …. like us.  We hear some very funny stories and some not so funny ones, some that make you think to much and that you are lucky for your lot.  You eat your burger and chips and head for bed.   Your designer room has everything you need including the best view in the world but you are rudely awakened by the heavy traffic trolling past 6 feet from the open window at 6 in the morning.

Breakfast is included in our double figure room rate and we dine on weetbix and marmite toast (where else in the world would you rather be) before starting our day.  We head to the cafe next door and enjoy a brilliant coffee and the company of the wonderful I-site ladies who provide us with a map,  although getting  lost no longer seems to matter as it’s a one way road with little choice in between.

We head towards the car ferry at Rawene and as it leaves on the half hour every hour we decide that our great coffee and chat means we have missed it, so we detour down a road with a sign that  says something  “boulders” and decide why not?  The rain stops and the harbour is glass, there is a silence that echoes all around and again the gratefulness of living and breathing in this place is never to be taken for granted. It’s stunning even when pictures are just taken with the cellphone.

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We continue onwards on our gravel road, dodging the odd roaming cow and lots of chickens and realise we may indeed miss the ferry,  AGAIN.  We don’t.  We end up in the cute little town of Rawene that for some reason reminds me of a car ferry somewhere in Victoria island, Canada except for the Pohutukawa  gracing the jetty.The most frequent cause of canadian cialis generic infertility in women is based on testosterone (T) therapy. viagra price important link Using this sex toy can make you reach the epitome of satisfaction. Pyruvate is used in mitochondria for TCA cycle where an enzyme pyruvate dehydrogenase is used in conversion of pyruvate get viagra no prescription to acetyl CoA to intialize the TCA cycle is also a regulating cycle for fatty acid metabolism with its different substitutes and secondary metabolites. To get the maximum effect out of get viagra cheap Kamagra consume it on empty stomach. 3.

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We farewell the Hokianga Harbour as we leave it behind in our misty wake. I have many more grey hued photographs framing iconic kiwi scenes:  rugby posts on left over fields, obligatory war memorials engraved with far too many names for tiny two horse towns,  native bush and winding roads where logging trucks pull over  and wave you past.

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Don’t leave home……

As NZers of a certain age we remember the ad campaign “don’t leave home until you have seen your country”.  New travel goals were added in line with this theme.  We would visit Northland, Coromandel, Milford, Dusky Sounds, not all at once of course but you get the picture.

For me I remember a family holiday when I was about 12 …..I think.  I can recall the story of Opo the dolphin and visiting Tane Mahuta,  and having our picture taken on the Waitangi treaty grounds by the flag pole. For WH, he has barely made it over the harbour bridge so it’s time  to refresh and recreate the memories.

There are already a couple of pitfalls which I have uncovered about holidaying or I will say exploring your own country.  Firstly it is too easy to postpone it.  We were supposed to go about three weeks ago now but various things come up and it’s far to easier to just keep pushing it out. Now however the weather seems to have had enough of the long hot summer and whilst it is exciting the farmers with forecasts of rain ,rain ,rain, its not so great when heading away.

Secondly I am excited about the fact that this is going to be very cruisy as there are no restrictions on my luggage at all.  Not by weight, or size or even flammability.  I have a big car boot to hold it all – I put my jandals in, my sand shoes, my other dressier cleaner sand shoes, my sandals, even my scuffs…. my jacket, my umbrella (even though there are already two in my boot) …water bottles,  chilly bag with a few things that might be needed in case of emergencies like butter, crackers, vegemite, tomatoes that won’t last until we get home, a lemon,  lemon tea bags, and nuts. Then of course my little suitcase and WH,s whom I must say is now beginning to suggest that I may not need my latest additions into the car boot.  I dismiss his accusatory tone and say the boot is not even full.

Back to the road trip….and more importantly what didn’t go into the boot?  Firstly a map.  We have several good kiwi maps at home but none in the car.  The sat nav one doesn’t give enough info and the wifi on the phone is intermittent and might I say too small to read.

We literally take the scenic route and fittingly when we arrive at the Kauri museum the Jucy van parked next to us said it all…

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It’s one thing to say you got lost in France or Italy but not on the skinny tip of home.

The Kauri museum fits into my “I’m not that good at museums” and I have far to quickly for the $25 entry fee seen enough.   I also realise, much to my horror, that one of the things I also forgot to put in the boot was my bloody camera.   I KNOW. REALLY.
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We move on through pretty country and it feels good now I have moved past the knowledge of no map, no camera and I am no good at museums.  We are in search of Tane Mahuta and childhood memories start sweeping slowly into familiarity.  The weather is damp and the bush sparkles so as we pull up into the car park the rain stops and we head off through the disinfecting station and into the bush.

You come around the corner and there he is  “Tane Mahuta” stands majestically.  I choose the word carefully as it is needs something that describes its awesomeness.  There are some things Kiwi that give you a shiver, like the haka at a test match, the NZ anthem when someone wins a gold medal, hearing the crowded house song “better be home soon” when you are overseas…..and standing beneath “Tane Mahuta”.

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We finish the days journey wandering the picturesque road into the town of Opononi ready for yet another memory to reawaken and new ones to be drawn.

tips for travelling at home.

Pick a date and lock it in.  Just like you do when you book your airfare.

Take a map

take your camera.

Belfast II

 

Black Cab Tours

I think of all the things I learnt on this trip the one that amazes me the most is that there is a wall in Belfast  which separates the Protestant area  from the Catholic area.

I had heard of the “peace wall” and for some reason I thought it was a wall where everyone wrote messages on, which is sort of correct but it was put there to seperate the two communities and the gates still close at 7 pm every night.

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Belfast peace wall

the wall has been signed by millions of people, including some very famous ones

”open your arms to change,but don’t let go of your values” – Dalai Lama

right above the Wannabe famousAnna Kiwi

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The graffiti is mixed with art although it feels a shame when an artwork such as the above is defaced like this.  The one below was left in tact, so far.

The wall stretches and bends around the edges of houses that are the same but seperated by difference.  It certainly an interesting situation

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Caged backyard backing onto the wall.
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it seemed crazy and still does that in this ultra friendly, modern and fun city the wall was a reality of some people’s lives.

The Black cab tour through these districts was fabulous and has to be a must do if in Belfast.

The cabbie dropped us of at The titanic museum and yes we all know the story so I shall not tell it but shall say the museum was great.

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Titanic Museum

Belfast was brilliant the only thing that disappointed was not having another day and night to spend here.

Art on every corner

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Belfast

Belfast is brilliant.  We stayed at a great little Airbnb apartment in cathedral square.  We were met by the  owner who had a brother who lived in Wellington so had the two degree connection.   She recommended some places to see and eat and left us to it.

We decided to head to the Christmas market.

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We wandered through the Christmas fare, fighting off the children’s flapping balloons and inhaling sweet sickly smells.  None of it actually induces us to stick around too long but I can concur with what Brits tell us, NZ doesn’t do Christmas well.  Everywhere we went whole towns are decorated and the turning on of lights is a big deal.  There are markets and festivals and singing and concerts.

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We didn’t last last long and left the sparkling lights behind in search of a restaurant and wine without the balloons and reindeer.   Every corner turned in Belfast can unveil something remarkable or maybe not.  It is a city of anticipation where you are not quite sure what lays ahead but the  possibilities are enticing.

I could fill three blogs with pictures of the street murals.  Some are hidden by buildings, and you just catch a glimpse so you delve further

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Street murals

My favourite was a little lane with umbrellas on the ceiling that lead to a courtyard
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what you can see at the end is a courtyard where every inch is covered in murals.

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And then on the outside

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You can just keep going and going.

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You get the picture.

It’s just such a great place to wander and  the people are really friendly and chatty, I will have to do a seperate post on the rest as run out of time.

Giants Causeway

Busy, busy day.  We spent the night at Derry and when light came in the morning we walked the city walls.  Evidently they are the oldest complete walls in Ireland.  The day is unfolding to be a stunner.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHaving hit the furthest northern point we were now travelling south down the coastal road with the aim to be in Belfast before dark.  Our first stop is Lions gate and it’s beautiful.  You can drive right onto the beach below and see the dome in the distance.

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Al’s coffee cart greets you in the car park,  he is not yet set up so he hands us a brochure and promises coffee on our return.  The walk through the ruins in its spectacular location is stunning.  The temple is actually a library which sits at the end of a path that is slowly being eroded by time and elements.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAl is good for his word and makes a great flat white which is very welcome after our fresh, brisk walk.  The sun is shining but it’s still only 6 degrees outside.  We farewell Al who tells us he has the best job in the world and has been doing it for 12 years.

We wind our way to the Dark Hedge, made famous from Game of Thrones.  We arrived with bus loads of tourists so was difficult to get a good shot, but I like this one with reflections in the puddle.

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We got talking to an older South African couple who were touring in a camper van.  We saw it in the car park with a map of the world with so many countries marked off.  WH asked them how long they had been on holiday and they replied “6 years”.Some of the medicine is used to cure levitra online erectile dysfunction. This means that when these blood vessels dilate there is an improved blood flow into your penis Is buying online risky? There are always doubts in your mind when deciding whether order viagra overnight. Any variation of the viagra cialis achat coordination leads to erection of penis. 2. Musli Strong capsules are the best price levitra aphrodisiac foods for men available in the online market.

We move on towards the Giants Causeway, a world heritage site of natural wonder and on reaching it I can say it is.  We feel under pressure for time as you could spend hours here walking the tracks and exploring.  The rocks jut out from the foreshore all like hexagonal towers.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt has its own Giant legend story and that along with the geology lessons is all really fascinating but time ticks by and we cheat and catch a shuttle bus back up the to the top.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe head towards Garrick rope bridge and duck and dive between  beautiful little bays.  The one below we literally stumbled on and is actually a wrong turn.  It was a lucky wrong turn as by the time we get to the rope bridge the light is gone .

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe end up giving the bridge a miss and take a picture from the distance. The sun is going down and we are still away from Belfast.  I could tell you a few hairy  travel stories but don’t want to spoil the day so leave them be so they can  fade into the background and disappear.

We arrive at our apartment in Belfast, which is great, and then head out to explore.  There is a lot to explore.

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Wild Atlantic Way – day 3

We spent the night at Sligo in a tired hotel and ate a tired dinner and then watched some very tired TV, so we gave in and quickly succumbed to the general mood and were asleep by 9 pm.

We were out the door after you guessed it, a tired breakfast, and stopped down the road for a walk to ensure we leave all tiredness behind us.  The Citron is less bossy so the roads must be wider.    The temperature of 5 degrees definitely wakes us up.  We are on the surf coast so lots of beaches and even brave surfies out, but unlike Sligo they have wetsuits on.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA We make a detour up a goat track, to an ancient dome built around the 8th century.  Citron has a tantrum all the way up but it was worth it when we get to the top.  It’s great to wander around this ancient structure  The weather has chased us all morning and I feel like it has finally caught us and it’s going to snow any moment, my hands ache from the cold.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe 360 degree view is spectacular and the weather dramatic.

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WE decide to head Malin Head which is the furthest northern point in Ireland. It Doesn’t disappoint as we play tag with the thunderstorms.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe weather is definitely wild.  It’s so windy it reminds me of a Wellington southerly, it’s bitterly cold and cuts straight through every layer you have on.

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the sheep didn’t seem to mind and in the next photo look out for the Eire sign on the grass.  It was out there in world war 2 to let pilots know they had reached Ireland’s coast and neutral territory.

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We head back down the coast hoping to catch a ferry across towards the Giants Causeway, but alas no sailings today.

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No sailings today

We head to Derry and on our way cross over the border and are now in the UK again.  Tomorrow we head for Belfast along the Giants Causeway and I can report our hotel tonight is not tired just comfy.

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Cute thatched cottage Malin Head

Road Tripping

Where was I?  Can’t remember where we were last time I blogged.  I think Salthill just out of Galway.  It comes back to me as we left relatively early and stopped on the promenade to take a picture of the diving board.  Move over Wellington city bomb platform.  Might I add it was 5 degrees outside, not sure what the water temp was  and if you look closely you can see a lady who has just gotten out of the water. She has the orange bathing cap on and there were two more getting ready to go in.  One gentleman looked to be in his 70’s but being so hardy he was probably in his 90’s and just looked a Spritely 70ish.

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Salthill promenade

We headed north as the objective was to keep following the Wild Atlantic Way.  It’s probably best to tell you the next in pictures as road trips are about what you see on the way.

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Sky Road
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Cottage with thatched roof and sign that says something and Jim.

I will add here that the Wild Atlantic Way is pretty wild.  Our little Citron bounced all over the road and left me feeling quite car sick.  We took the sky road which wound its way to the top and afforded wonderful views but the roads are incredibly bumpy. I think because so much of it is bog land.

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Kylemoor castle

We stumbled across castles
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Phone booth and The Pound

and a phone booth in front of the “The Pound” ( check out sign on wall) which was after we had been travelling along a skinny road with no markings, no signs and grass growing in the middle of it. I was petrified something was going to come the other way, it didn’t – then whola all of a sudden there is a junction, with a phone box, and a pound. Excellent.

Just a little story about our Citron.  It hasn’t been a very bossy car.  It doesn’t beep when I open my door, or in reverse.  It doesn’t warn us that the light is on, nor get agitated when we approach a brick wall.  It does however beep when it thinks you have crossed the centre line or got to close to the edge of the road.  Sooooo you might say, what’s the problem?  The problem is that when you are on a skinny road with no centreline and the edge just right there then the car has a fit.   It beeps and beeps and beeps.  How annoying is that.

art of the day

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A sculpture by a famous local artist who I apologise but I can’t remember who.

tip

stay at Jameson apartments Salthill they are lovely. The staff and the apartments.  They even gave us some bottled water and lollies when we checked out for our journey.

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